On April 17, fashion artist Gwendolyn Toll staged her second “BonBonBardot” fashion show at the College of Fine Arts as an exploration of 1960s retrofuturism.
By Emma Zhao
Soon to graduate with a BFA and minor in Business Administration, senior Gwendolyn Toll brought her BonBonBardot fashion brand to the School of Art this spring, transforming the painting studio into an immersive runway. BonBonBardot’s new collection, titled S.O.S., draws from 1960s retrofuturism and pop art influences. “I like exploring iconic, angular, feminine silhouettes and creating clothes that inspire people to be bold and live life colorfully,” she said.
Toll was born and raised in upstate New York, where her interest in fashion first took shape. “At a very early age I was already clipping things to my clothes for fun, but in sixth grade I started pinning things to mannequins. They weren’t wearable pieces just yet, but that was when I started having fun with the idea of making clothing,” Toll said.
Below, Toll shares more about her fashion journey, from studying abroad in London to what might be next. “I definitely want to explore how to build more theatrical elements into my runway shows,” she said. “I feel compelled to bring people together in a more sensory-based experience.”
On Inspirations
One of Toll’s main sources of inspiration started with her father’s love of science fiction: “Over the past few years, I think I was very deterred by sci-fi films, because I felt like there was a lot of overwhelmingly masculine representation. That is something that I personally do not relate to at all,” she said. So Toll started brainstorming ways to put sci-fi into a new, more feminine perspective, largely taking inspiration from The Fifth Element and Jean Paul Gaultier’s work. Her recent trip to Morocco also offered perspectives on how everyday life and culture can be seamlessly blended together to create meaningful pieces.
On Fashion Shows
Toll’s motivation to start producing fashion shows started in London in the summer of 2024. “Honestly I had no intention of putting on shows, or continuing my fashion line when I started university,” she said. “But when I went abroad to study at the London College of Fashion, I got inspired by all the people I met there.” Toll also participated twice in CMU’s annual Lunar Gala, which is where she realized that she wanted to challenge herself with fashion projects on her own schedule. Gwen hosted her first BonBonBardot fashion show in spring 2025.
On Process
“My creative process definitely differs depending on the piece, but I usually love to create fashion illustrations as the first step,” Toll explains. “I think it is important to keep the tradition of making physical documentation alive.” She also loves working with mood boards, organizing her inspirations by color and texture. “Sometimes it is tricky to keep a cohesive mind space when approaching new projects, so my sketchbook has been a great way to keep me grounded.” When it comes to materials and fabrics, she likes to test them in different light settings. Sometimes, she says, the most interesting parts of her collection are the result of “slip-ups” that lead to unexpectedly beautiful results.
On a Standout Piece
“I was greatly inspired to make this bottle cap dress when I visited the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame five years ago,” Toll shared. “There was a ’60s psychedelic room with a lot of metallic chainmail-style dresses that reflected the futuristic nature of the period.” Toll’s dress is created out of photos of music and pop art icons that are glued to hammered bottle caps. “I think this dress is definitely the most unconventional piece that I have ever made,” she said. “It’s interesting to see the different directions my work is moving beyond conventional garments.”
On Advice
Toll believes in starting with the basics. “In all artistic practices, whether it’s painting, sculpting, printmaking, you have to nail down the technical parts first to be able to create a lot of fun imaginative pieces.” She gives this example: “Even if [you’re] just making a classic A-Line skirt, having a nice lining it’s definitely worth it. Those skills really come in handy when you are trying to navigate more complex architectures.”
On the Future
Toll’s dream is to work for a luxury fashion house, like Marc Jacobs or Dior, in one of the world’s fashion capitals. “I do also want to keep going with my brand,” she said, “working with stylists and my local community of creatives to spread my designs across the world.” She also sees a future in clothing that’s directly marketed toward Gen Z consumers. “I feel like there is an absence of fun in the clothes that are marketed toward our generation right now. I want to work against that and make high-quality, fun pieces that can bring a bit more colors and playfulness to our generation.”
More from Gwendolyn Toll | gwendolyntoll-portfolio.my.canva.site | @bonbonbardot
Emma Zhao is a First-Year BFA student. Follow her at @emmazzzz101.
Photography by Suanna Zhong, Deya Liao, and Emma Zhoa.